Goat Rocks Wilderness Backpacking Guide

The Goat Rocks Wilderness drapes over the crest of the Cascade Range in south-central Washington, offering endless views of iconic Cascade peaks and volcanoes. Numerous snowfields flank its craggy ridges and peaks, while steep drainages open into basins filled with alpine meadows and glacial lakes. Pacific Crest Trail hikers frequently say that Goat Rocks has the best scenery along the northern half of the 2,650-mile PCT. And, if you’re quiet and lucky, you may see mountain goats. 

Flanked by the Gifford Pinchot and Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie national forests, and located just south of Mount Rainier and north of Mount Adams, much of Goat Rock’s 120-mile trail system stays on the ridges at or above timberline. Alpinists are drawn to the wilderness area’s highest point – 8,184-foot Gilbert Peak, which can be summited via a challenging but nontechnical ascent. But the window for these higher-elevation adventures is tight – the snow often doesn’t melt until August and can reappear as early as late September.

Quick Facts

• Distance: Varies, depending on route
• Days Needed: 2-6 days
• Peak Elevation: 8,184 ft. / 2,494 m
• Elevation Gain/Loss: Up to 5,200 ft.
• Best Travel Time: August – October, depending on snow levels
• Permits: Required (see below)
• Difficulty: Moderate to difficult

Highlights

• Mostly forested hikes with occasional meadows and distant views
• Cool when it’s hot elsewhere
• Relative solitude, but expect to see day hikers around trailheads
• Variety of day hikes you can add on
• Wildlife and bird sightings
• Campfires allowed in some areas
• You can bring your dog
• Mountain goats, elk, marmots, and pikas

Lowlights

• Steep trails in many places
• Snow well into August at high elevations
• Early snow in the fall
• Mosquitos, gnats, and black flies
• Crowded camping areas
• Icy lakes means no swimming

When Is the Best Time to Visit?

In general, the end of July through October is the best time to hike in the Goat Rocks Wilderness. July and August are usually great for wildflowers, but that’s also the time when mosquitoes will be the worst. Use a combination of permethrin on your clothing and a small amount of 30% DEET on exposed skin for full protection. Mid-August through September can also be a good time to visit because crowds and bugs thin out.

Snowpack is a key factor for trip planning in the Pacific Northwest. Some years, a heavy winter snowpack will keep trails covered into July. On warmer years with lighter snowpack, June backcountry trips are quite feasible. The same is true for autumn hiking: Some years, early snowstorms make this area inaccessible; other years, it’s stable into October.

As always, be prepared and diligent in monitoring current conditions as weather can change quickly in the mountains. Before heading out, check the National Weather Service for current conditions.

How Difficult Is the Hiking?

We rate most backpacking trips in this region as moderate to difficult due to the many steep ascents and descents. As always, difficulty ratings depend on the route you choose as well as your experience, physical fitness, pack weight, and weather conditions. Although most routes in Goat Rocks are not technically demanding, you should always plan thoroughly, train properly, know your limitations, brush up on your skills, and dial in your gear. Doing so will make for a more safe and enjoyable adventure.

What Are the Permit Requirements?

Wilderness permits are required for entry into Goat Rocks Wilderness within the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. The self-issued permits are free and available at all trailheads leading into the wilderness areas. You can also attain them at the Cowlitz Valley Ranger Station in Randle, Washington. 

In addition to a wilderness permit, the Packwood Lake and Berry Patch trailheads require a Northwest Forest Pass or America the Beautiful Interagency Pass to park at the trailhead. A fee tube is located at the motorized trailhead below the parking lot. Call the local ranger district office for up-to-date information, as requirements can change.

What Are the Trailhead Options?

There are more than 30 interconnected trails in the Goat Rocks Wilderness totaling about 120 miles. The most popular trails are the Snowgrass Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail, which intersect in Snowgrass Flats.

The Gifford Pinchot National Forest website is a great resource for trail information, including current snow levels, weather conditions, driving directions, and closures – which are frequent and ever-changing. 

What Are Some Possible Itineraries?

Because there is such a wide range of trails in the Goat Rocks Wilderness, the backpacking itinerary options are endless. You can access the beauty of Goat Rocks in a two- to three-day weekend trip or plan an epic four- to six-day trip, allowing you to fully explore the region. Below we outline several itineraries to meet your group’s needs. 

One-Night Option

Snowgrass Flats to Goat Lake or Old Snowy Mountain

• Starting Trailhead – Snowgrass Flats Trail #96
• Camp 1 – Lily Basin Trail, just beyond Snowgrass Flats
• Ending Trailhead – Snowgrass Flats Trail #96

Two-Night Option

Lily Basin Trail to Heart Lake, Chimney Rock

• Starting Trailhead – Lily Basin #86A
• Camp 1 – Heart Lake (look for a treed bluff campsite just after you cross the inlet creek)
• Camp 2 – Heart Lake (day hike to Chimney Rock or summit Johnson Peak); return via Lily Basin Trail or Angry Mountain Trail
• Ending Trailhead – Lily Basin #86A

Three-Night Option

Three Peaks to Lost Lake

• Starting Trailhead – Three Peaks #69
• Camp 1 – Mosquito Lake
• Camp 2 – Lost Lake (day hike to Chimney Rock)
• Camp 3 – Packwood Lake
• Ending Trailhead – Three Peaks

Four-Night Option

Walupt Lake to Goat Lake or Old Snowy Mountain

• Starting Trailhead – Walupt Lake #101
• Camp 1 – Sheep Lake (knoll south of lake)
• Camp 2 – Lily Basin (next-day hike to Old Snowy or Goat Lake)
• Camp 3 – Cispus Pass
• Camp 4 – Sheep Lake
• Ending Trailhead – PCT Trail #2000 to Trail #101 to Walupt Lake or Nannie Ridge #98 to Walupt Lake

Where Should I Camp? 

When backpacking in the Goat Rocks Wilderness, you should only camp in pre-existing sites. This helps reduce resource damage by minimizing human impact in high-elevation/popular areas by concentrating use to a few often-used sites rather than scattered sites throughout an area. In some places, you’ll see a designated campsite marker on three-foot-high posts engraved with a tent symbol. 

One big issue we’ve encountered in the Lily Basin/Snowgrass Flats area is people failing to pack out human waste and even leaving behind toilet paper. Please do your part to preserve this fragile environment by following Leave No Trace practices and packing out all your trash. Heck, gain a little trail karma and pick up some trash you encounter along the way!

Which Maps & Guidebooks Are Most Helpful?

• Green Trails Maps 303S – This map has all the necessary details for backpacking in the Goat Rocks Wilderness, including trail mileage, campsite locations, water sources, etc.
• National Geographic Trails Map #823 – This map is a great resource filled with landmarks, roads, trail mileage, contour lines, and all the details you’ll need to complete your trip.
• Hiking Washington’s Goat Rocks Country – This extremely detailed hiking guide offers 50 detailed hike descriptions. There’s also additional information on geology, history, and wildlife.
• Backpacking Washington – The Overnight and Multi-Day Routes edition covers the Goat Rocks Wilderness in depth. We use this resource to plan many of our backpacking trips throughout Washington.
• Day Hiking Mount Adams & Goat Rocks Wilderness – Though this book is focused on day hikes, it’s a great resource for planning which region you want to explore within the Goat Rocks Wilderness.

How Plentiful Are Water Sources?

There are plenty of streams and lakes throughout the Goat Rocks Wilderness. It’s rarely a problem to find water, but we still recommend consulting your map to plan your water sources throughout each day. It’s always a good idea to check with the Forest Service ranger station in Randle for up-to-date information on water quality and availability. 

Water from backcountry sources in Goat Rocks must be treated. We carried the Katadyn Steripen Ultra and were happy with its performance. A lightweight water filter or chlorine dioxide drops or tablets would be a good choice, as well. Check out our best water filters list for our top recommendations.

What Regulations Are in Place?

When planning your visit the Goat Rocks Wilderness, make sure to review and follow the wilderness regulations and guidelines put forth by Gifford Pinchot National Forest to keep this region pristine and wild. Below are some of the most noteworthy.

• Camping is prohibited within 100 feet of the PCT as well as lakes and streams.
• Group size is limited to no more than 12 per party (including both people and pack animals). Groups larger than 12 must split into two or more smaller groups and remain least at least 1 mile or one-hour travel distance apart at all times.
• Shoe Lake Basin and Snowgrass Flats are closed to camping and campfires; camping is available at Hidden Springs (about 1 mile west of Shoe Lake).
• The Yakama Indian Reservation, bordering the Goat Rocks Wilderness on the southeast, is closed to the public except for the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail route.
• Waste must be carried out or buried at least 6 inches deep and 100 feet from water sources, trails, and campsites.
• Pack out all trash (including food scraps) and any you see left by others.
• Dogs can be in the wilderness, but be aware of the potential impact on wildlife.

What Are the Best Practices for Food Storage?

There are few reports of animal or bird encounters in this area. That said, many visitors set up a base camp, leaving gear and food items behind during day hikes. Consider using a safe food storage container, such as an Ursack. Place any food and scented items inside at night or when you are away from camp. Always follow proper storage techniques to ensure your food is safe and you’re doing your job to keep wildlife wild. 

Do I Need to Worry About Bugs?

July and August are a great time to visit Goat Rocks, but you should be prepared for the possibility of mosquitoes, gnats, and flies. Use a combination of permethrin on your clothing and a small amount of 30% DEET on exposed skin for full protection. Mid-August through September can also be a good time to visit this area because crowds and bugs will be reduced.