Mount Margaret Backpacking Guide, Mount St. Helens

Lying just north of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, the Mount Margaret Backcountry provides sweeping views of the blast zone caused by the 1980 eruption and the surrounding peaks of Mount Hood, Mount Adams, and Mount Rainier. It remains one of the more geologically interesting places to hike, as more than 40 years after the explosion, you can still see signs of the devastation and the resilient ecological comeback.

With spectacular views, abundant lakes, and wildflowers that persist into early August, the Mount Margaret Backcountry is an incredible chance to get away without having to travel far from Portland or Seattle. Elk and mountain goats are not uncommon sights along the Lakes Trail, and well-maintained, permit-controlled campsites make this area delightful to explore.

Editor’s Note: We updated this article on September 17, 2026, to revise information about permit pricing, current restrictions, and the availability of composting toilets.

Quick Facts

• Distance: ~25 to 35 miles depending on the trip
• Days Needed: 2 to 4 days
• Elevation Gain/Loss: ~3,000 to 6,000 feet
• Best Time to Travel: Late July through early October
• Permits: Required
• Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous

Highlights

• Views of the Mount St. Helens blast zone and surrounding peaks
• Numerous alpine lakes
• Beautiful wildflowers
• Fairly ample water sources
• Ecosystem and wildlife diversity
• Trails are well marked and easy to navigate
• Easy permit process
• Good campsites
• Close proximity to Portland and Seattle

Lowlights

• Seasonal bugs (biting flies and mosquitoes)
• Snowpack can linger late into the hiking season
• Busy on summer weekends
• Limited shade and potentially hot summer weather
• Steep ascents and descents
• Lesser-used trails can be overgrown and washed out

When Is the Best Time to Visit?

Late July through early October offers the best trail conditions and weather. Snowpack is a key factor for trip planning in this region. Sometimes, a heavy winter snowpack and early-season storms keep trails covered into July. Other years, June backcountry trips are possible. The same holds true for autumn hiking, with shoulder-season conditions varying year to year.

During the shoulder seasons, there are often large, steep snow fields found on north and east exposures above 5,000 feet. It’s best to take these sections slowly and move cautiously. When snow travel is expected, we recommend packing microspikes and an ice axe for stability and safety (and knowing how to use them). Always contact a local ranger station prior to your trip to obtain current information on trail conditions and snow levels. 

July and August are usually great for wildflowers, but that’s also the time when mosquitoes will be at their peak. Use a combination of permethrin on your clothing and a small amount of 30% DEET on exposed skin for full protection. Mid-August through September can be a sweet spot for bugs, weather, and crowds.

How Difficult Is the Terrain?

• Total Distance: ~25 to 35 miles
• Total Elevation Gain: 3,000 to 6,000 feet (fairly steep ascents and descents)
• Overall Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous

As always, difficulty ratings depend on your experience, physical fitness, pack weight, and weather conditions. There is one primary trail system in the Mount Margaret Backcountry, and regardless of the route you pick, you’ll encounter some elevation changes. It’s also possible you’ll encounter snowy slopes, so make sure you are adequately prepared for this type of travel. Know your limitations, brush up on your skills, and dial in your gear to ensure a safe and enjoyable adventure.

Do I Need a Permit?

Wilderness permits are required for overnight trips in the Mount Margaret Backcountry between May 1 and November 30. There are eight designated camps, with just one permit issued per night for most (except Ridge Camp, which allows for two permits per night). Group size is limited to four people, or up to eight total at Ridge Camp.

Permits can be reserved online for $7 per person per night, plus a $6 reservation fee per transaction. Also, many trailheads that access the Mount Margaret Backcountry require a valid recreation pass, such as a Northwest Forest Pass or America the Beautiful Interagency Pass. Two vehicle parking passes are included with overnight camping permits.

What Regulations & Restrictions Are in Place?

Fires, bicycles, and stock are not allowed in the Mount Margaret Backcountry. All trash must be packed out, including toilet paper. Pets must be leashed. As always, adhere to Leave No Trace principles to minimize your impact and keep the area accessible for future generations. For the most up-to-date information on current restrictions and guidelines, check the Gifford Pinchot National Forest website.

Where Is the Best Place to Find Solitude?

There are many day hikers along the Lakes, South Coldwater, and Boundary Trails. However, there’s solitude to be found as you hike farther from trailheads. The limited backcountry permits keep the campsites from getting overrun and ensure you’ll have a quiet place to set up camp.

How Do I Get There?

The west edge of the Mount Margaret Backcountry is 100 miles north of Portland, Oregon, and 150 miles south of Seattle, Washington. Whether you’re coming from the north or the south, you’ll take I-5 to the Spirit Lake Memorial Highway 504. Once your itinerary is set, get specific directions to your trailhead and ensure you have an appropriate vehicle for the road conditions.

How Many Backcountry Campsites Are Available?

As mentioned above, the Mount Margaret Backcountry has eight backcountry campsites available. All sites have level, wood-framed tent pads and solar composting toilets. (Editor’s Note: As of September 2026, the Forest Service is in the process of decommissioning and removing all of the composting toilets since they have reached the end of their service life. All overnight users must bring a trowel, pack out toilet paper, and bury waste at least 6 to 8 inches deep and 200 feet from water sources.)

Along the Lakes Trail (211), there are campsites at Snow Lake, Shovel Lake, Panhandle Lake, and Obscurity Lake. Along the Boundary Trail (1), camping is available at Bear Camp, Margaret Camp, and Dome Camp. Along the Coldwater Trail (230), camping is available at Ridge Camp. Ridge is the only camp in the Mount Margaret Backcountry without reliable water access, with the nearest water approximately 1/2 mile away.

Which Trailhead Should I Start From?

There are four primary trailheads with access to the Mount Margaret Backcountry: Lakes Trail, South Coldwater Trail, and Boundary Trail to the west and the Norway Pass Trail to the east. Well maintained and paved, Highway 504 provides easy access to the western trailheads. Forest roads 99 and 26 provide access to the Norway Pass trailhead but see seasonal closures. The Gifford Pinchot Forest Service site is your best resource for current road and weather information.

The Whittier Ridge Trail (214) provides a connector between the Lakes Trail (211) to the north and the Boundary Trail (1) to the south. This trail is very narrow and requires scrambling across steep terrain with sheer drop-offs. None of the suggested trips include the Whittier Ridge Trail, and it should be approached with caution and considered only by very experienced hikers comfortable with exposure.

There are some worthwhile side trips to the summits of Coldwater Peak, Mount Margaret, and Harry’s Ridge. All three provide great opportunities for additional mileage and breathtaking views.

What Are Some Possible Backpacking Trip Itineraries?

Mount Margaret Lakes Loop

• Trailhead: Coldwater Lake Boat Launch
• Distance: ~30
• Days Needed: 3 to 5

Quick Summary: This loop covers a wide section of the Mount Margaret Backcountry and includes some serious climbing. It takes you to to several lakes and to the highest points for breathtaking, 360-degree views. The campsite at Shovel Lake is often overlooked because accessing it requires a steep, 400-foot descent (and subsequent ascent) in 1/2 a mile, but the lower traffic means greater solitude. This trip includes the ability to climb to the top of Mount Margaret and Coldwater Peak, each offering spectacular views of the blast zone and surrounding mountains.

Route: From the Coldwater Lake Boat Launch, take the Lakes Trail (211) past campsites at Snow, Shovel, Panhandle, and Obscurity lakes. At the Boundary Trail (1) junction, turn right and continue past Margaret and Dome camps, passing Mount Margaret on your way. Follow the Boundary Trail until turning right at the Coldwater Trail (230) junction. Continue past Ridge Camp to the Coldwater Trail before turning right at the South Coldwater Trail (230A) junction, which connects back to the Lakes Trail.

Norway Pass Lakes Loop

• Trailhead: Norway Pass
• Distance: ~25 miles
• Days Needed: 2 to 3

Quick Summary: Approaching the Mount Margaret Backcountry from the east, this loop is a slightly shorter option with more gradual climbs than the Lakes Loop. The trailhead at Norway Pass may be inaccessible depending on road conditions, so call the ranger station ahead of time before selecting this route. This loop passes through Norway and Bear passes, both providing incredible views.

Route: From the Norway Pass Trailhead, follow the Boundary Trail (1) until the junction with the Lakes Trail (211). Turn left and continue along the Boundary Trail, passing three possible campsites at Bear, Margaret and Dome camps before reaching the Coldwater Trail (230) junction. Turn right and continue to the South Coldwater Trail (230A), passing Ridge Camp, then onto the Lakes Trail (211) before turning right. The Lakes Trail passes camps at Snow, Shovel, Panhandle and Obscurity lakes before reaching Bear Pass and the junction with the Boundary Trail.

Johnston Ridge to Coldwater Lake

• Trailhead: Johnston Ridge Observatory
• Distance: ~25 miles
• Days Needed: 2 to 3

Quick Summary: This trip requires a shuttle or second car but provides a great way to see the best of the Mount Margaret Backcountry. It has a more net downhill profile and a chance to bone up on your Mt. St. Helen’s knowledge before hitting the trail. Starting at the Johnston Ridge Observatory, this trip offers postential side trips to Harry’s Ridge, Coldwater Peak, and Mount Margaret while approaching the lakes section covered above, avoiding the strenuous climb.

Route: From the Johnston Ridge Observatory, follow the Boundary Trail (1) heading east and passing possible campsites at Dome, Margaret and Bear camps. Continue until it connects with the Lakes Trail (211) at Bear Pass, then turn left. Continue along the Lakes Trail past Obscurity, Panhandle, Shovel and Snow Lake camps until reaching the Coldwater Lake Boat Launch.

What Are the Best Maps & Guidebooks for the Area?

• Backpacking Washington – This book features several hikes in the Mount St. Helens area, offering comprehensive and detailed information. We highly recommend picking it up if you like backpacking in the PNW.
• CalTopo – We used this app to research, plan trips, and print maps for the Mount Margaret Backcountry. It takes a little time to learn the tool, but CalTopo is an excellent resource for backpackers and provides excellent elevation profiles and terrain information.
• Gaia GPS – Though trails are well marked throughout the Mount Margaret Backcountry, the Gaia GPS app is a very helpful tool. We always bring printed topographical maps and a good compass, but Gaia is one of our favorite digital navigation tools.
• U.S. Forest Service Website – The Mount Margaret Backcountry page has the latest information on trail closures, weather conditions, and wilderness restrictions. It also features downloadable/printable maps for trails, campsites, and the greater Mount St. Helens area.

How Accessible Is Water?

Water is fairly accessible throughout the Mount Margaret Backcountry, with a few exceptions. The lakes and streams along the Lakes Trail and portions of the Boundary Trail (from Dome Camp east to Bear Pass) provide ample opportunities to fill up with clear, moving water. The Coldwater Trail (230) provides few reliable water sources with small streams likely to dry up late in the season. Carry plenty of water between the Coldwater Trail and Boundary Trail south of Dome Camp. 

Always pack a lightweight water purification method, such as the Katadyn Steripen Ultra, Sawyer Squeeze, or Aquamira (chlorine-dioxide) drops. For more options, check out our list of the best backpacking water filters.

Do I Need to Worry About Bugs?

Biting flies and mosquitoes are seasonally present and can be aggressive in the Mount Margaret Backcountry. Be sure to prepare for this annoyance with permethrin on your clothing. It’s also a good idea to apply DEET on exposed skin for full protection. As we covered above, mid-August through September can be a good window for favorable weather, fewer crowds, and minimal bugs – just be aware of the potential for early-season snow.

What Should I Use for Navigation?

The trails in the Mount Margaret Backcountry are generally well defined and easy to follow. However, signage at some junctions may be weathered or confusing, and some less-traveled trails might be overgrown. Some sections are overgrown to the point that your legs will quickly get scratched up, so long pants may be beneficial. As always when backpacking, make sure to carry a physical map and a good compass – and know how to use them.

How Should I Store Food?

The Mount Margaret Backcountry does not have specific food storage requirements. However, bear and cougar sightings are not uncommon in this area, and there are also marmots, chipmunks, and other small critters. If you want to protect your food and scented items (which we think is a good idea), a hard-sided bear canister is recommended over a bear bag due to lack of trees for hanging.

More Mount Margaret Backcountry Photos